Solid-flat iron as opposed to. quality skillets: Selecting the right pot

Cast Iron or Stainless Steel? Choosing a Pan the Way You'd Choose a Shoe

The title of this page is a garbled version of a familiar kitchen question: should you cook in a cast iron skillet or a quality stainless steel one? It is an odd topic for a shoe shop, but the decision works much like picking footwear. You are weighing durability, weight, upkeep and what you will actually use the thing for day to day.

Cast iron: the work boot of the kitchen

A cast iron skillet is heavy, slow to heat and very hard to wear out. Once it is hot it holds that heat well, so it is a good choice for searing steaks, baking cornbread and shallow frying. A well-seasoned surface becomes fairly non-stick over time. It does need some care. Dry it straight after washing and wipe on a thin coat of oil now and then to stop rust. Long simmering of acidic foods such as tomato sauce can strip the seasoning. Think of it like leather boots that need conditioning: a little regular maintenance and they last for decades.

Stainless steel: the versatile everyday sneaker

Good stainless skillets usually have an aluminium or copper core sandwiched inside, so they heat quickly and evenly. They are lighter, they don't react with acidic ingredients, and most can go in the dishwasher. They are also good for pan sauces, because the browned bits that stick to the bottom come up easily when you add liquid. The trade-off is that food sticks more unless you preheat the pan properly and use enough fat.

How to decide

• Mostly searing and oven-to-table cooking: cast iron.
• Quick weeknight meals, sauces and acidic dishes: stainless steel.
• Limited wrist strength or storage space: stainless is easier to handle.
• Low budget, long horizon: a plain cast iron pan is often inexpensive and can outlast its owner.

Plenty of home cooks end up owning one of each, much as most people keep both sturdy boots and comfortable sneakers by the door. If the footwear side of that comparison is what brought you here, browse our new arrivals or check the size guide before you order.